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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The honour has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble place achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.